*silkstudio *
If you are using a round hoop when embroidering to avoid creases - do the following:
1. Wrap the inner ring of the hoop with cotton bias tape.
2. On a flat surface, place the fabric face up on the ring and smooth with your hands.
3. Gently put on the outer ring, after setting the desired size. The outer ring should fit snugly, keeping the fabric evenly taut.
If you do not embroider, do not leave the product on the hoop, as traces will remain on the fabric that will be difficult to remove.
When embroidering on the hoop nothing will happen to the crosses. After washing, everything will be smoothed out and no traces will remain. This has already been tested by time and personal experience.
But! There is such a rule (or a little secret)- never bare hoops are superimposed on the embroidered surface. Or we put a batiste handkerchief on the canvas (for embroidery), or wrap the hoops themselves with thin cambric.
The surfaces of adjoining tissues must be uniform.
And yet - I never leave the hooped fabric to lie for a long time, I finished the embroidery - I loosened the fastening or completely removed the hoop. The fabric needs to "rest".
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21.02.2012
I am pleased to share with the forum users the experience of creating a "bonnet" to protect large embroidery from contamination when embroidering on a hoop.
The idea is not mine, I saw it on a page on the Internet, many thanks to the author!
So, for starters, lay out a simple elastic band around the perimeter of your hoop without stretching. Cut off two rubber bands.
1.2.3.
Next, hoop the canvas into the hoop and start laying the excess around the hoop, in a spiral, as shown in the following photos.
On the circle formed, measure the length of the future "bonnet", plus 2 cm for seam allowances. The width of the "bonnet" is measured as shown in the photo, plus 2 cm on each side for the drawstring into which the elastic will fit. For my case, the dimensions turned out to be: length 106+2=108cm., width 14+2+2=18cm.
Iron 2 cm allowances along long sections, sew short sections 1 cm wide on a sewing machine. Next, hem the drawstrings on both long sides, leaving small (1.5 - 2 cm) sections for threading the elastic.
You put elastic bands on both sides, sew the ends of the elastic bands - and the "cap" is ready.
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There is another way protect the embroidery in the hoop . I put cling film on the canvas, put on the hoop, pull it on, then carefully make an incision on the film crosswise in the center of the embroidery, move the film apart to the sides - the middle of the embroidery is open, and the edges are protected by the film. Food film does not rustle and is pleasant to the touch. The embroidery protects well!
When I embroidered a pillow on the hoop, in the process of embroidering I noticed that the threads were frayed under the hoop, then I covered it with cling film. And the issue with the threads was resolved: the threads stopped fraying and deforming. Finished the pillow successfully. This is my experience. Of course, you can wrap the hoop with cloth, etc. The film option is the easiest and fastest. If in doubt, you can apply the film in two layers.
1. Put cling film on the canvas with embroidery.
2. Carefully cut the film crosswise and folded it to the sides.
3. The hoop on the machine.
But I had a sad experience with the hoop: the canvas broke when I pulled it, it just cracked! But, I think, there was a bad canvas, bright red (I embroidered a hieroglyph), overdried, of poor quality!
*Ignatia*
If you fill the fabric in the hoop "on the contrary", as if inside out, then you can not be afraid that the crosses will fray.
I like to embroider on a small hoop on the road, because they can be placed on the right fist and embroider with two hands: very convenient! But it is also inconvenient to fix the thread on the wrong side, because the edges of the hoop are so close. It is much more convenient when the embroidery is tucked in the opposite way. 
You can do the same with snaps, especially with small ones. Tapestry frames can also be stretched the other way around, especially for those who embroider from the bottom up: then you won’t get your precious crosses dirty with your hands, and it’s also much more convenient to fasten the threads if you do it on the wrong side.
When the hard edges of the canvas fold forward, I take clerical clips (the smallest ones) and fasten the corners of the fabric together, laying them like a fold. And then, due to the severity of these clamps, nothing is bent anywhere. Instead of stationery, you can use hair clips. We turn the excess fabric face inward and fix it with the same binders.
I do not wrap the hoop with anything and do not remove the embroidery from them and do not even loosen them. The tension is super drum, for this I even use a hoop with a high rim.
Yes, embroidery "in circles" before washing. But the evenness of the crosses is perfect, and after washing all the creases go away without a trace.
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Another option for using cling film to protect embroidery.
While embroidering on a frame .
My embroidery is protected both from below and from above. From above, I recommend protecting it for sure for those who start to embroider from above, and for those who attach the pattern to the canvas, as I do, so as not to stain the embroidery, and even a clean canvas, with marker paint.
In addition, during the embroidery process, I turn the frame over all the time to fix the thread on the wrong side, unravel the threads, etc. - you have to take your hands out of the frame.
I tear off the film a little wider than the size of the stretched canvas. I wrap it around the frame and pinch it with curtain clamps. You can also use stationery clips, etc.
I also want to add that the cling film does not rustle, it is very pleasant to the touch, thin, it carefully stores the embroidery.
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I use polypropylene pipes to protect embroidery (as well as to stick needles and as a “parking lot”), which are designed to insulate water pipes. The Folk's Tutorial already shows how to use them for
The hoop is a useful and even necessary tool for embroiderers. Whether you are embroidering on canvas with a cross stitch or on a fabric with a satin stitch, the use of a hoop will help not to tighten the base material with a thread. The hoop ensures accurate work and makes it much easier. The working surface is clearly visible, embroidery in a mobile hoop is convenient to hold in your hands, and a stationary hoop like a machine generally completely frees your hands. However, some (more often experienced) embroiderers prefer to work without a hoop: in this way, each stitch can be done in one movement, rather than two. In fact, this is the only bonus of working without a hoop, and you should always be careful not to pull the fabric off with embroidery. In a word, most embroiderers choose to work with a hoop - how to choose the hoop itself, we'll figure it out below.
What are the hoops
Round, oval, square, tapestry, armchair, hoop-frames and hoop-looms - they are made from different materials and different sizes. Consider the main varieties.
1. Round hoop
The most common type. Round hoops may or may not have a fastening mechanism (the first option is more reliable and convenient). Dimensions vary in diameter (up to 30-35 cm) and thickness of the rim (7-25 mm). The diameter should be chosen according to the size of your embroidery, the thickness of the rim - according to how comfortable it is for you to hold the hoop in your hand. The hoops are made of plastic, metal and wood - experienced embroiderers agree that wooden hoops are the most convenient and durable of all, and well-crafted hoops made of wood are the most gentle on the fabric.
2. Oval and square hoops
Such hoops are arranged according to the round principle, the difference is that they have either an oval or a square shape with rounded corners. These hoops can be selected if they fit the shape of your embroidery. Some embroiderers also find it more convenient to use a square hoop - this is found out in the process of work and for each individually.
3. Embroidery hoops
This is a much more complex and space-consuming option than the previous ones. However, they have a lot of advantages. Such hoops, as a rule, are located on the table (there are also quite large ones that are placed on the floor) and completely free the embroiderer's hands for work. They can be used for big jobs. They allow you to reduce the skew when embroidering petit and semi-cross stitches. They allow the use of fabrics of different lengths and deform the fabric a little. Often such hoops have several options for attaching fabric to them, which is convenient. You can find square or round frame hoops.
4. Tapestry frames
The tapestry frame is a wooden rectangle to which the canvas is attached only from above and below. You can fasten the canvas to the frame either to the fabric (if the upper and lower parts of the frame are sheathed with it) or with special plastic clips. As you embroider, the canvas scrolls with the help of the upper or lower parts of the frame, which scroll in either direction.
5. Chair/sofa hoop
If you like to embroider not at the table, but in an armchair or sofa, consider this option. A chair hoop is a simple embroidery frame attached to a leg holder and stand. Such a design can be placed next to you, for example, on an armchair and embroidered, pressing the stand with your foot.
6. Frame hoops
This is a "symbiosis" of simple round, oval or rectangular hoops and frames for finished embroidery. These hoops have a loop that you can use to hang the embroidery on the wall right in the hoop-frame when you are done.
7. Clamps for attaching the hoop to the table
Mobile and not bulky replacement for the machine, freeing the hands of the embroiderer and not taking up much space. With the help of a clamp, the hoop can be fixed at a height convenient for you and rotated around its axis.
Machine or hoop - reasoning embroiderer
What should I pay attention to when buying and using a hoop?
The hoop, no matter what material it is made of, must be perfectly polished, without any irregularities (this can damage the fabric).
If you choose a hoop with a fastening mechanism, check its operation when buying. The screw should turn not too tight, but also not turn (the thread must be intact).
Prefer unpainted hoops - this way you are guaranteed not to stain the working fabric.
To make the wooden hoop hold the canvas better, you can wrap it with silk ribbon.
If you take a break from embroidery, remove it from the hoop - this way there is less chance of creases on the fabric.
Do not expose the hoop made of wood to moisture, temperature changes, do not leave it in direct sunlight for a long time.
Embroidery as a kind of decorative art has been known to mankind since ancient times. This art originated in the Eastern region. And it developed, widely used, from an even earlier time than it became known in Ancient Rome and Greece.
In fact, embroidery is a handicraft, which involves decorating with various patterns of fabrics and other materials (canvas, leather, cambric, linen, gas, tulle, and so on).
The main tools for this type of creativity are special threads, needles, scissors and other devices.
About the hoop
This is an embroidery tool that has a round, oval or rectangular shape. It comes from the word "to stare" - to stretch, stretch. It consists of two frames, slightly different in size from each other. A fabric is stretched between them.
When the master is just starting to master this art, he often uses a hoop. Firstly, the relatively small size allows you to embroider on a sofa (chair), transfer work to any distance. Secondly, with the hoop it is possible to sit comfortably (unlike the machine) in order to eliminate pain in the back and arms.
But there are also negative points in use: busy hands, difficulties when embroidering a large canvas (stitches sandwiched between ring frames are bent). That is why many craftsmen switch to machines and frames.
Machines for embroidery
They are of the following types: floor, table and sofa.
Floor, as a rule, consist of a support, legs and directly a frame with clips for the canvas.
Sofa and desktop machines consist of side supports (in the form of rigid triangles or other forms of structures) and a frame on which the fabric is fixed. Thanks to this device, you can embroider canvases of large and huge sizes (from towels to carpets). In addition, the hands of the master remain free.
But there is also a negative point: the back gets tired quickly. This is due to the fact that the machine is located at a certain distance from the embroiderer. This creates some inconvenience (and even forces some to switch back to the hoop).
But progress does not stand still, and special frames for embroidery have already begun to appear in Europe. And some compatriots make them with their own hands.
Cross stitch frame
In view of the fact that most craftswomen prefer well-stretched fabric (canvas), tapestry frames are popular devices for this type of creativity, in addition to the hoop.
Main characteristics:
- They have a rectangular shape.
- Dimensions can be adjusted or be rigidly fixed.
- Due to the fact that the field for embroidery is large enough, the work can be done both sequentially and randomly.
- Most of the embroidery is visible, which is also a positive point.
- The design allows you to evenly stretch the canvas and subsequently avoid distortions of the finished picture.
Frame criteria
According to the following criteria, you should choose this device for embroidery:
- Ease of use;
- A light weight;
- Functionality;
- Pleasant to the touch material;
- Adequate cost.
Due to the fact that there are not so many frames for embroidery with beads and crosses around the world, and not everyone likes what already exists (as usual, you won’t please everyone!), The masters came up with the so-called " set of criteria for an ideal frame":
- high-quality and environmentally friendly materials of the components (exclusion of a negative impact on the health of the master, as well as damage to the canvas);
- when moving the embroidered work, so that the finished sections are not deformed;
- convenient fastening of the canvas to the structural elements;
- the possibility of excellent tension on 4 sides (it is desirable that this can be adjusted);
- minimum dimensions and weight;
- good external data (pleasant sensations from touching the frame, color, grace, and so on);
- acceptable price.
Fabric fastening
How to use the cross stitch frame? It is very important to stretch the fabric and secure along the horizontal and vertical (if necessary) components of the structure. This is done with the help of sewing, Velcro, clips, special fasteners with clips, in grooves, and so on.
In order for the embroidery process to be of high quality and pleasant, it is really important that the canvas horizontally and vertically be evenly, evenly and smoothly stretched, without waves and distortions. Each straight sewing line should be even and straight.
- The fabric must be fastened either with the front or wrong side out (in order to protect it from external influences when working on a large canvas).
- Choose a location from which to start work.
- Wind the upper and lower sections of the canvas on the horizontal strips. Thus, the necessary "working" fragment will be on the frame.
- Tighten the fasteners on the horizontal bars of the frame firmly.
- Stretch and adjust the fabric so that the surface looks like a drum.
How to sew fabric to the frame braid:
- find the central part of the fabric along the top edge;
- combine it with the middle of the horizontal top bar;
- fix this place with a pin;
- stretch the canvas evenly and fix the entire attached edge with pins on the braid;
- with a needle and thread with large stitches, go with a seam obliquely along the fixed line (sew the canvas to the braid);
- do the same on the other side.
Do it yourself
A craftswoman from Russia and her husband talk about making a frame for embroidery with your own hands (a master class for those who wish!) Having systematized the information that is available on the Internet on this issue, having independently made a drawing, they calculated the materials and made them.
So, as a sequence of work (the size of the finished product is 45x30 centimeters):
Ready fixtures
Those who do not want to mess around or do not have the opportunity to make their own, can order a ready-made frame for embroidery "Millennium".
Such a device is very convenient to use and of high quality in terms of its materials and components. Unfortunately, they are not produced in Russia, and therefore they are ordered exclusively from abroad. Country of origin - UK.
What is the beauty of this embroidery device:
There are no drawbacks as such, except that when ordering via the Internet, you need to wait about 2 months. And quite a high price.
But, according to the reviews of craftswomen who have already tried the Millennium frame, it's worth it!
The components of this device for handicraft are as follows:
How to use the frame "Millennium"?
Before you start embroidering, you need to stretch the canvas.
For the frame of this brand there are some features:
- First, the side braces are attached to the lower horizontal planochka of circular cross section.
- Next, the lower edge of the canvas is placed on the plank and fixed with a thin stick (knitting needle). After that, the fabric is wound around the bar several times (4-5). Pulls up well.
- Then the top edge of the embroidery fabric is attached to the top horizontal bar. And also fixed with a knitting needle.
- Next, you need to bring the upper parts of the side struts into line with the holes that are on the top bar.
- And when the entire frame is assembled (together with the canvas), you need to make a good tension. To do this, simultaneously rotate the wooden nuts that are on the threaded pins - until they are fully tensioned.
Other manufacturers
The Elbesee embroidery frame is also very high quality. It consists of two horizontal planochek (circular section) and two vertical (rectangular section). Between themselves, all components are fixed with special bolts.
Made from high quality wood.
By the way, on the horizontal slats there is a fabric to which the canvas is attached (as on the slats of the frame, which is made by hand). The tension is carried out due to the “fixators” (the fabric for embroidery can be sewn with a thread, fastened with buttons, and so on). This device for creativity also comes from the UK.
Dimensional characteristics
For embroidery with beads and cross stitch, tapestry frames of different sizes are used, depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe canvas:
- The optimal height of the frame (according to the standard) is 30 centimeters (approximate distance from the elbow to the wrist of a person), which is quite convenient and comfortable for the hand. If the height of the work exceeds this indicator, the “extra” extreme (top and bottom) centimeters of the canvas can be wound on slats.
- There are frames with a height of less than 30 centimeters - for narrower and fully embroidered works.
- The maximum height can reach more than 30 centimeters. Such square devices are used in cases where all work in height must be on the "working" surface - due to its volume or other features.
What frame to choose (model, size, and so on) - it's up to the master to decide!
You need to beat out with a cross on a hoop or frame. This is not only convenient, but also important. Let's look at what can be used and what is better. At first glance, you might think, what is there to choose, so I have some left from my childhood and will use them. I do not advise you to do this, because. There are many unpleasant moments when choosing the “wrong” hoop. For example, if the fabric is not tightly stretched, then the canvas sags and the pattern is deformed, and it is very difficult to embroider on such a fabric.
So let's look at what kind of hoops are.
1. Plastic hoop .
They are plastic, have a round shape with a plastic screw. Such hoops were produced back in the USSR, so they can be found in many homes, and especially such hoops remained with our grandmothers. Also, such hoops are produced now, they have different sizes and are not expensive.
2. Wooden hoop with metal screw .
Unlike plastic hoops, wooden 
more reliable, because hold the fabric tighter.
You need to use such a hoop as follows: take a smaller hoop, on which we put the fabric for embroidery, and cover it with a larger hoop on top. Remember, you must definitely loosen the screw, this is necessary in order to make it easier to put the two hoops together. Then we stretch the fabric and tighten the screw, but not too much. When the fabric is tight on the hoop, tighten it again and fix the screw well all the way.
3. Spring-hoops or two-hoop hoops without screws
. 
Such hoops are used mainly in machine embroidery, but with proper skill, they can also be used for hand embroidery.
4. Flexi-hoop or double hoop hoop .
Outwardly, such hoops resemble ordinary plastic ones without a screw, but they are arranged a little differently. The inner ring is made of rigid plastic, while the outer ring is made of flexible "rubber" plastic in various colors. These hoops have a metal loop for which you can hang the finished work on the wall. It should be noted that it is better to choose such a hoop so that the embroidery is completely included, because. they are very tight and it is better not to mix them. I would like to note that the two-hoop hoop keeps the fabric taut very well and this makes the embroidery process more comfortable. It is because of this that many needlewomen prefer to use the flexi-hoop in their work.
5. Q-snap.
In my opinion, one of the most convenient. This type of hoop is used not only in cross stitch, satin stitch, 
hardgarden, but also in such types of creativity as patchwork, silk-screen printing and others. Q-snaps are produced mainly in the form of separate hoops, as well as in the form of a table, although it is worth noting that such a table is not used for embroidery. How to use these hoops? Very simple, first you need to put the fabric on a rectangular frame, after which it is fixed with special clips. Q-snaps are designed in such a way that the embroidery fabric does not wrinkle and the crosses do not deform during operation.
6. Hoop with bracket for desktop or floor.
These hoops are very comfortable, as both hands are involved in the work. There are also those that are attached to the table, chair, which makes the process more comfortable.
7. Straight hoop or "frame".
Many needlewomen choose this type of hoop, especially with an embroidery machine. Direct 
the hoops have side rails that are attached to the rollers with the so-called wing nuts, and therefore such a hoop is very easy to disassemble. These hoops have a special braid on the frame, with which you can determine the size of the hoop. It should be noted that when using such a straight hoop, the width of the fabric you use is limited, but the length can be any. Excess fabric for embroidery must be wound onto the rollers of the “frame”. There are desktop, floor and manual hoops.
