Wicker weaving originated in ancient times. Over the long centuries of its existence, from the production of objects necessary for human life, it has turned into real art. Weaving is practiced all over the world. Rattan and palm fiber, even pine roots and paper are used for this activity, but the most common material is willow twigs. The variety of materials has led to the emergence of various weaving techniques; objects created in different parts of the world are unique and different; they are united only by beauty and environmental friendliness.

Willow twig is an indispensable material for creating extremely useful household accessories. Containers woven from willow are good for storing cereals; they absorb and remove excess moisture and do not interfere with air circulation. In addition, willow contains bactericidal substances that prevent rotting. Since ancient times, wine bottles have been woven with willow to preserve it. Thanks to this “case,” the optimal temperature is maintained, the drink does not overheat and does not cool too much. Jugs braided with willow are also used for preparing fermented milk products. Fruit baskets, candy bowls, and bread bins are made from willow; they are very beautiful and functional. Items made from wicker are easy to clean without losing their shape.

Wicker boxes for storing kitchen utensils - interior decoration Wicker vases and candy bowls - interior decoration Candy bowls, bread bins and vases made of wicker - table decoration

Accessories woven from willow are also very good for storing things. Their variety is impressive - these include small boxes and huge chests. Things in them do not cake and do not acquire an unpleasant odor. Wicker boxes and storage boxes greatly decorate the interior.

Wicker baskets for storing things - beautiful and functional Wicker chests - interior decoration

Handicraft baskets allow you to neatly store numerous balls, spools, scraps, and ribbons.

Wicker furniture

Wicker furniture is an interior decoration. It is appropriate both in the country house or in the winter garden, and in a chic living room. It is suitable for home and restaurant. Furniture woven from wicker was used both in palace interiors, surprising with its exquisite decoration of silver and gold, and in simple houses. Classic English and French interiors are unthinkable without it. But the willow vine allows you to create a wide variety of forms that will fit into the most radical interior without violating the concept. Wicker furniture includes cozy armchairs, majestic sofas, laconic stools, tea tables, bookcases, and even beds and playpens. Wickerwork is used as finishing for cabinets, cabinets, and chests of drawers.

Wicker armchairs, a table and a floor lamp - interior decoration A rocking chair made of wicker and an openwork table - coziness in the interior Wicker whatnot - lightness in a classic interior A wicker table will decorate any interior

Wicker furniture goes perfectly with wood and stone, with animal skins. It makes any room warmer and closer to people. It is not without reason that it is traditionally used in rooms intended for recreation. Such furniture is very functional, it is very light, and you can rearrange it at any time. She is never cold. It is convenient for people of all ages - it’s a grandmother’s rocking chair, a cradle for a baby, and some strange object in a teenager’s room.

Wicker furniture - a cozy corner for drinking tea Wicker furniture - decoration of a garden, veranda, room Wicker chair - a feeling of warmth in the interior Wicker bed for a classic bedroom Original wicker chairs - the highlight of the design Original wicker chair for a modern interior Wicker stool in the interior - beautiful and practical

Wicker houses for animals in the interior look very stylish, make the room cozy, and are usually very popular with pets.

Wicker cat house - interior decoration

Wicker decorative items

Lampshades woven from wicker for floor lamps, chandeliers, and sconces greatly decorate the interior.

Any painting or photograph in a wicker frame looks like a masterpiece.

Mirror frames made of wicker add solidity to the room without depriving it of coziness.

Floor and table vases made of wicker greatly decorate your home. They are ideal for dry arrangements, but can also be used for live bouquets on a special moisturizing base. Flower pots and tubs look beautiful in the interior and are comfortable for indoor plants.

Floor vases woven from wicker - for different design styles Wicker flower pot and hanging vases for decorating rooms Wicker amulet for the kitchen - drive away evil spirits from the room

Wall panels made of wicker look very exotic, and floor mats are pleasant on the feet.

Wicker sculptures for home and garden

If the backyard of your country house is decorated with wicker sculptures, it will become more pleasant and lively. Wicker sculptures are distinguished by size and design features of the models. These include: statues, columns, crafts of animal figures, people or characters from fairy tales.

Animal figurines made from wicker are a wonderful decoration for a garden or a large room. Made by hand, they seem to live: under the influence of conditions, they slightly change their poses and move.

Peacock made of wicker - the work of a Donetsk master

Wicker toys

A special place is occupied by wicker toys for children - sleighs, horses, carts. Unlike sculptures, they are woven from stronger rods; the ends of the rods are connected especially carefully so that the product does not fall apart and does not scratch the child.

Animals made from wicker - baskets for toys

All wicker items are made by hand, each of them is unique and each contains a piece of the master’s soul. Therefore, rooms filled with such things become very cozy.

A car made of wicker - to decorate the garden Did you like the article? Share on social networks!

People began to weave wicker baskets with their own hands a long time ago. This material was also used in the manufacture of fences and cradles for babies. Even dishes were made from vines. Nowadays, wicker baskets owe their popularity to mushroom pickers. They are the ones who use such products more than other people. A good solution is to weave a separate option for picnics or home use. There are many design ideas - from the simplest to the stylish and fashionable. At the same time, it is easy to make this item yourself.

Choosing the right material

The first thing you need to do is select the material. It must be of high quality. The service life of the product depends on this indicator. Usually the vine is cut at the very beginning of spring or autumn. It is believed that at this time it has great strength.

A high-quality vine branch is determined as follows: at the thickest point, bend it all the way. It should not burst or crack. A material that meets these parameters is suitable for weaving. An important nuance - each branch must ripen.

The vine must be processed, because recently cut wood will not be able to hold the shape of the basket. There are two methods for preparing branches: soaking and leveling. In the first case, the rods are treated under running water or placed in a container and the liquid is changed every day. The water should completely cover the wood. To prevent it from floating up, it should be pressed down with a weight. This procedure must be carried out within two weeks.

The second method is faster and will take three hours. The rods must be placed in a large container and filled with boiling water. The mixture is boiled for about two hours. You should cool the vine and begin to separate the bark from the twigs. The peculiarity of the second method is that the vine branches will acquire brightness and shine. They are also easy to clean and wash.

Making a list of tools

Before you weave a wicker basket with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools:

• awl;
• side cutters;
• weight - it will hold the vine in a certain position;
• pliers - use them to bend rods.

Equipment should be prepared in advance. This approach will speed up cart creation.

Work algorithm

How to weave baskets from wicker? First, you need to divide the work into several stages; they will help you quickly understand the algorithm of actions and master the technique:

1. Weaving the bottom begins with the fact that you need to take 8 twigs. Half of them have a hole. Each of them is 3 centimeters. The second half of the branches is threaded into these slots. As a result, a cross is formed.

Making a cross for the bottom

2. The next step is braiding the base. You need to take two branches and circle them around four rods. So you should weave two circles. Upon completion of this action, they begin to braid each of the rods. Two more rows are created. The elements must be evenly distributed. The result of weaving is a circle.

3. Another rod is added. It is placed in the outer row and bent. It is worth noting that the previous base is cut off (due to lack of length). In the same way, all the rods are replaced and two rows are woven. The vine should bend around the rod from the inside and outside. This principle continues until the bottom is completed. There are 16 main rods. At the end of weaving you need to add another one. It is placed between the other branches in the last circle.

Making the base

4. Having weaved the base of the intended size, you need to start creating the walls. You should choose medium-sized rods. They are attached to the bottom of the basket - into the weaving itself. The bases of the walls are bent to a right angle, and the tops are tied. The bent ends are inserted into the bottom of the basket and begin to braid them. You should take three twigs. With the thin side they are inserted into the holes next to the main rods - one per rack.

5. You should weave a “braid” and repeat the pattern of the base. It should be shaped like a diamond, and it will go around each vertical rod. In this technique, 2-3 rows are performed. Such actions allow you to create the basis of the form.

Making a frame for the walls

6. It’s time to start weaving a common “fabric”. In this case, the method of inserting the vine behind one stand and bringing it out in front of the other is used. When the desired height of the basket is reached, the vertical branches are cut and their ends are hidden in the weaving.

We weave the walls

The wicker basket is ready. All that remains is to make the handle. First, you should measure the length for the handle and choose a thick branch. It is bent and given the shape that will suit the basket. The ends of the rod are sharpened and inserted into the walls of the product. 6 thinner rods should be placed next to the handle. They bend around the main branch, which allows it to be firmly secured in the weaving. To prevent small branches from moving, they are secured with tape. The “tails” of the rods should be hidden in the walls of the basket.

Making a handle

To start using the basket to its full potential, you need to let it dry. This will take several days. This simple method is used by most beginning craftsmen. In the future, it is recommended to develop your weaving skills and create more complex designs. Not only baskets are in demand, but also furniture and decorative elements made from wicker.

Weaving instructions (2 videos)

Options for ready-made baskets (38 photos)

Wicker weave

Wicker weaving is one of the most ancient crafts. It arose much earlier than pottery and occupied a significant place in the life of ancient man. Dwellings and outbuildings were built from the branches of woody plants, fences, children's cradles, sleigh and cart bodies, furniture, children's toys and dishes were made. Back in the 19th century. and even at the beginning of the 20th century. One of the most common products in peasant life was wicker bast shoes.

Much has changed since then, but wicker weaving has not been forgotten. Until now, baskets, bread bins, fruit bowls, and trays made of wicker twigs enjoy deserved popularity due to their elegance and ability to fit into even the most modern interior.

They also make furniture from wicker that is light, comfortable and beautiful. These are a variety of chairs, armchairs, sofas, banquettes, bookshelves, rocking chairs and much more. Such furniture can be used not only indoors, but also outdoors, since it is not afraid of moisture. However, weaving furniture is an entire art, which can only be mastered through practice, after many lessons in weaving simple objects from wicker.

The most common products made from wicker are baskets.

Each master not only weaves his products according to general principles, but also brings something of his own to it. Decorating wicker products, and the choice of weaving methods themselves, is a matter of taste. It is enough to know only some general principles and types of weaving, and further success will depend on the practice and imagination of the master. Based on experience, imagination and his own vision of the subject, each master improvises and improves his product during the very process of its manufacture, which allows him to achieve compositional completeness.

Material

Willow is the general name for a number of plants, which include willow, shelyuga, willow, willow, willow, and sedge. The rods of many of them, after appropriate processing, are quite suitable for weaving. The exception is brittle willow and some other species. Most often, young shoots of willow, three-stamen and basket willow are harvested for weaving.

For weaving, rods aged from one to two years are usually used. For small, graceful weaving, annual shoots are taken, which in some species of willow are thin, long, and cord-like; Two-year-old shoots are used for weaving large items, as well as for making basket frames. Willow rods intended for weaving must be long, thin, flexible, viscous, straight-layered and split well along the fibers. It is necessary to harvest only those rods whose surface looks glossy after removing the bark.

For baskets, try to prepare rods at least 60 - 70 cm long with a diameter at the butt (at the cut point) of 5–8 mm. Typically, willow shoots on one bush have approximately the same physical and mechanical properties. Therefore, before cutting twigs from a bush, you first need to check the quality of one of them. If a willow branch has a very large core with a brownish-reddish tint at the cut, then such a twig will be very brittle. It is best to take branches that have a small, barely visible core at the end of the cut. And of course, you need to choose fairly straight shoots, without growths, damage and knots.

You can harvest vines for weaving at any time of the year. The process of removing bark from twigs is called debarking. But most often this is done in the spring and autumn. The bark of spring shoots can be easily removed without pre-treatment. If the twigs are cut at another time of the year, then in order to remove the bark, they need to be soaked or evaporated. In summer and autumn, the rods are soaked in running water from a river, stream, or simply in some container, but then it is necessary to change the water every day. The harvested vine is tied into a bundle, a weight is placed inside and immersed in water. Steel objects should not be used as a load, since the tannins contained in willow bark can color the wood unsightly. To prevent the rods from being carried away by the current, they are tied with a rope to a peg driven into the bank. The rods are soaked for 1–2 weeks. In order not to wait such a long time, the rods can simply be steamed. To do this, the rods are placed in a tank or trough, filled with water and boiled for 1–2 hours. Then the rods are taken out, allowed to cool and the bark is removed. During operation, the rods must be flexible, that is, bend 180° without breaking. It is necessary to separate the twigs from the bark within 4 hours after steaming, otherwise the separation of the bark will be difficult.

Tools

The tools used in the work are few: an awl, a sharp knife, pruning shears and a heavy metal bar used to compact the rows of rods (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Tools

To separate the bark from the rod, use a special tool -pincher(Figure 2).

Rice. 2. Hand pinchers

The simplest and most common design

Rice. 3

gdemilki is a metal slingshot driven into a massive bench, table or log. The squeezer can be made from two metal rods. Pointed rods (they can be two thick nails) of the same length are hammered side by side into a wooden base, they are wrapped with thick wire from below, laying turn to turn, to a height of 5–7 cm. The free upper ends are pulled apart in different directions - a slingshot is obtained (Fig. 3) .

With the help of such a pinch the rods are debarked. The work is best done with cloth gloves. Approximately in the middle, the rod is clamped with a pinch, which is held with the left hand. With your right hand you pull the rod towards you. If the bark is removed only from one side, the rod is passed through the pinch again.

Barked rods should be dried immediately, otherwise they may lose value: darken, become moldy and even rot. It is also impossible to stack undried debarked twigs in piles, as they will become stained. In summer, the rods are dried for several days under a canopy on decks in the open air. Dried rods are stored in a dry, well-ventilated area, stacked.

Baskets and other large items are most often woven from whole green or debarked twigs. To weave small baskets or other products, split thin rods are used.

To divide the rod into several parts (shredders), splitters are used (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. To the hole

To do this, chop the rod into 3-4 parts with a knife, insert a splitter into the cuts and pull the rod toward you, dividing it into shanks. The tires, in turn, can be planed into strips (Fig. 5).

Rice. 5

Before splitting the rods, they are soaked in several stages in water for 4–8 hours.

Material processing

Some of the rods intended for artistic weaving can be pickled or painted. To achieve a uniform white color and also to protect them from rotting, wicker products are bleached. Natural bleaching can be achieved by drying the debarked twigs in the sun. The rods are artificially bleached using sulfur: a wicker product and a box with sulfur (60 g of sulfur per 1 m2) are placed in a special box, which is set on fire, and the box is tightly closed. After 3–6 hours, the rods are bleached.

You can also bleach rods using a chlorine solution: 1 part bleach, 15 parts water diluted with 1–2% sulfuric acid. All work is carried out wearing rubber gloves.

To obtain bright colors, you can use regular aniline dyes. Place four packets of aniline dyes in a bucket of hot water. Add a few tablespoons of acetic acid to the paint solution. In order for the rods to be well dyed, they are kept in the dye for about 3 hours, then rinsed with clean water and dried at room temperature. Long-lasting color is given to the rods by dyeing them with natural dyes. A grayish-brown color is obtained if the rods are dipped in a solution of iron sulfate for a while. The yellow color is given by a decoction of heather, wild rosemary, birch leaves, and onion peels; green – a decoction of wolfberries and vinegar; brown - a decoction of black alder branches, buckthorn shoots and leaves, as well as a solution of potassium permanganate.

The products look very beautiful, the individual parts of which were subjected to speckled firing. For these purposes, the surface of the rods is sprayed with clay and then fired on a burner. The clay is knocked down.

You can also decorate a rod by burning out entire patterns, which are first applied with a pencil and then burned onto the vine with a hot iron rod.

To protect wicker products and to give them a beautiful natural shine, they resort to varnishing using furniture nitrocellulose varnishes (NTs-222, NTs-218, NTs-223, NTs-224). However, it should be taken into account that such varnishes are not waterproof, and therefore the products must be stored indoors. You can also use polyester wax-free varnishes (PE-232, PE-247, PE-250).

Before weaving, debarked rods and strips are soaked in special containers in several stages, since the rods turn black from prolonged exposure to water. The material that dries out during operation is moistened with a damp cloth.

Methods and types of wicker weaving

Depending on the size and shape of the product being manufactured, as well as on the method of filling the space between the posts, there are several main types of weaving. It can be solid (thick), openwork or mixed, when several types of weaving are combined. The braid ends with a bend or a pigtail. However, any weaving includes posts, or a base, and the weaving rods themselves.

Main types of weaving

The most common type is straight or simple weaving. This type of weaving is used in the manufacture of suitcases, baskets, trunks.

Simple weaving through one post can be done with two, three or more rods from left to right (Fig. 6).

To speed up the process, you can weave with several rods at once (Fig. 7).

The rod goes around one post in front, with the next one at the back until the circle is closed.

It must be remembered that in the case of weaving a closed circle, the number of posts must be odd in order for the circle to close.

When weaving the next row, the first post bends around from the opposite side, while each post is fixed in the desired position. Weaving usually starts from the butt part of the rod. If weaving with a rod ends in its upper part, then the next one is laid behind 3-4 already braided posts to give the product greater strength. If the rod ends at its base, then a new rod is laid behind the same stool, tucking the ends inside the product.

Rice. 6. Straight weave

Rice. 7

When making not closed, but rectangular weaving, the outermost post bends around and turns back, and weaving continues from right to left until the desired height is reached

The racks should be braided with a rod tightly, with tension. From time to time, the rows need to be leveled, compacted and ensure that the racks are at the same distance from each other

If the braid should end up expanding upward, each stand must be pulled towards itself. If the product needs to be narrowed, the racks are bent inward, but this should be done evenly so that the product is not asymmetrical. It is better to put a weight at the bottom of the braid to make the work easier.

One rod can also bend around not one, but two posts (Fig. 8).

Rice. 8. Samples of complex wickerwork

The number of racks in this case should not be a multiple of 4 or odd. Another way of weaving is to weave the first and second racks in front, the third in the back, the fourth and fifth in the front, the sixth in the back, etc. (Fig. 9).

Rice. 9. Simple weaving samples

The number of racks should not be 3.

One of the varieties of simple weaving is layer-by-layer, or weaving in inclined rows. It is performed through one rack, but the difference is that the number of rods must be equal to the number of racks. The butt part of the rod is braided with simple weaving from left to right through one stand onto 3-4 stands nearby. The next rod is placed behind the adjacent left post and braided in the same way, slightly raising the unbraided ends.

Such weaving is carried out from the right hand to the left and necessarily closes the circle of weaving, while placing the butt parts of the rods inside the product, and the top parts - up and out.

If weaving needs to be continued, the butt parts of the rods of the second row are laid in a circle from right to left, with each rod intertwining four posts in simple weaving. The second stage is alternately braiding all the remaining ends of the rods behind one stand.

With this weaving method, the rods are selected to be the same length and thickness. Layer weaving can also be done with several rods (Fig. 10).

Rice. 10. Layer weaving

Weaving in rows - one of the simplest types. It is very convenient because the rods in this case can be of different lengths, the main thing is that their thickness is approximately the same, then the product will have a beautiful texture. It is performed with two rods at once. Weaving begins with the butt ends of the shortest rods; In simple weaving, they are braided through one post to the end of the rod, leaving its thinnest parts unbraided. The butt part of the second rod is laid behind the post next to the right from the beginning of weaving and is braided in the same way with simple weaving to the end. Further weaving is carried out in exactly the same way: after the complete braiding of the rod, the next one is laid behind the post on the far right, and weaving is done from left to right (Fig. 11) .

Rice. eleven. Weaving in rows

Square weave (Fig. 12) is performed with one or two paired rods or willow tape through two posts. There are square weaving, checkerboard and checkerboard.

Checker weaving performed by simple weaving through two posts (Fig. 13).

The second row of weaving is done in the same way as the previous one, only shifting the first rod one post to the left, that is, two posts go around the outside, and the next two – from the inside. The thickness of the second strip, just like the first, should correspond to its width. Thus, the second strip tightens those posts between which the weaving rods of the second strip crossed, and separates those that were pulled together by the first - the checker of the second strip is located in the middle of the two checkers of the first, shifting one post to the right.

Rice. 12. Square weave

Rice. 13. Checker weaving

Further weaving continues according to the principle: the third strip is woven like the first, the fourth - like the second, etc.

A beautiful design will be obtained if the rods are approximately the same in thickness and painted in two colors, for example white and brown. The pattern in this case will resemble brickwork when viewed from the side. The second type of weaving is made from single or paired willow rods or ribbons with simple weaving through two posts (Fig. 14).

Carrying out checkerboard weaving, The first rod goes around the outside of the first and second posts, bends inward between the second and third posts, goes around the third and fourth from the inside, and between the fourth and fifth the rod is brought out. Next, the rod is woven, bending around two posts on one side and two on the other (Fig. 15).

Rice. 14

The second rod is laid from the inside behind the first and second racks, brought out behind the first and second racks and then in the same sequence. Two posts are alternately braided on one side and two on the other (Fig. 16).

The height of the strip is determined by its checkerboard width, since the square shape must be maintained. In this case, you should ensure that squares of one color alternate with squares of another. With proper and careful weaving, all cells will be located strictly diagonally

This type of weaving is used in the manufacture of bags, baskets, etc.

Rice. 15. Checkerboard weaving

Rice. 16. Straight weave

Rope weaving (twisting) used in cases where some areas of a basket or other product need to be made more durable. For example, in flower beds, intersecting or parallel rods are intertwined with rope, individual elements are connected or fastened in a single weave, as well as when securing the ends of all types of weaving.

This weaving is done with a single rod, but at least two rods are involved in the weaving process itself. With this method of weaving the stand, the rods are simultaneously intertwined with each other, which gives the product special strength.

Most often, weaving with a rope of 2, 3,4 and 5 rods is used (Fig. 17).

Rice. 17. Weaving with a rope of three, four, five rods

When weaving a rope into two rods (Fig. 18), their butt ends are placed on different sides of the first post: the first rod is placed behind the first post from the inside and between the first and second posts is brought out.

Rice. 18. Weaving a rope into two rods

The second rod, on the contrary, is placed behind the first post from the outside and bent inward between the first and second ones, bends around the second post inside and is brought out between the second and third posts. Next, the first rod goes around the second post from the outside and bends inward between the second and third posts.

Twisting the rods together and between the posts firmly secures the posts themselves in the desired position.

A rope of three rods is woven simultaneously with three rods (Fig. 19).

Rice. 19. Three-strand rope weaving

Three rods are inserted between two adjacent posts. The left rod goes around two posts in front, and the third from behind, after which the rod is brought forward again.

The same is done with the next two rods. The stand located to the left of the rod from which weaving begins should be marked so that the transition to the next row is smooth. In each row the transition must be made in the same place.

Weaving with a rope of three rods is used to secure the base of the posts during the transition from weaving the bottom to the walls of the basket.

At weaving a rope in two rows in different directions one row is woven from left to right, and the other from right to left, so that the weaving better retains its shape (Fig. 20).

Rice. 20. Weaving rope in different directions

This type of weaving is started in the same way as a rope with two rods, with the only difference being that the ends of the rod are directed towards the inside of the product. When extending rods, their ends are laid on the reverse side. Weaving with rope in different directions in three, four or more rods is also used.

This type of weaving is used to differentiate between different types of weaving, to secure racks and simply as a decorative element when weaving mirrors, frames, in the manufacture of decorative plates and other products.

Rope in openwork weaving is most often made in two rods of approximately the same thickness and strength (Fig. 21).

Rice. 21. Rope in openwork weaving

The rod is bent in half and curved around the first post with the butt end inward and the apical end outward (Fig. 22).

Rice. 22

Next, the apical end is passed over the butt end and bent between the first and second posts into the inside of the product, it is used to bend around the second post from the inside and lead out between the second and third posts. The butt end between the first and second posts is bent outward, it is used around the outside of the second post, and between the second and third posts it is bent inward, while simultaneously placing this end of the rod over the top end.

Methods for finishing the edge of a product

The weaving of the sides of baskets, bags and other products ends with bending or special sealing of the edge. This kind of border securely fastens the product, gives it strength and rigidity, and also decorates the surface. Bending is performed in various ways. The simplest of them is simple bending for one rack. All racks, starting from the first, are bent from left to right, go around the adjacent right rack from the inside and lead out between the first two racks on the left (Fig. 23). The ends of the racks can also be brought inward. Under the first rack you can put a special lining 7.5–8 mm long and equal in thickness to the rack. When the weaving comes to an end, the lining is removed, and the last stand is tucked in its place.

Rice. 23. Weaving bends

At simple bending by two posts the first (leftmost) post is bent from left to right and inward. They go around the next (second) post from the inside, and the third from the outside, and bring the end of the rod inward between the third and fourth posts. Other racks are braided in the same way. The lining is placed under the bases of the first and second posts. In this case, the ends of the rods are brought inside, but they can also be brought out by cutting them off after finishing the weaving.

Simple bending using three posts. The first post is bent from left to right behind the second post from the inside, and the third and fourth – from the outside, and between the fourth and fifth its end is bent inward (Fig. 24).

Rice. 24. Weaving bends

All racks are braided in the same way. Linings are placed under the bases of the first two, which are removed after: the weaving circle closes The ends are cut with pruning shears

There are other, more complex bending methods: bending into four rods, three and four pairs of rods. This type of weaving requires care and precision to ensure that the edge pattern is beautiful and symmetrical.

Another way to decorate the edge is to braid the ends of the posts. This type of embedding takes more time, but gives the basket special beauty and expressiveness.

In addition, there are also overhead braids, which are made separately and then attached to the product.

An edge braid made of three pairs of twigs. Place a lining under one post (the right one) and bend it to the right and outward. The second post is bent in the same way (Fig. 25, A) a lining is placed under the base of the second post on top of the bent first post and the first post is bent inward between the third and fourth (Fig. 25, b). The third post is bent through the rod of the first post to the right and outwards (Fig. 25, V), and the rod of the second rack - outward between the fourth and fifth racks (Fig. 25, d). The fourth post is bent to the right and down next to the rod of the first post, thus obtaining the first pair of rods (Fig. 25, V). The rod of the third post is bent from above the first pair inward between the fifth and sixth posts, and the end of the second rod is bent outward between these posts (Fig. 25, and).

To get the second pair of rods, the fifth post is folded outward next to the rod of the second post, then the first pair (the first and fourth posts) is folded over the second pair (the second and fifth posts) and brought out between the sixth and seventh.

The third pair of rods is the third and sixth posts, which are folded over the first pair outward between the sixth and seventh posts (Fig. 25, h). The second pair is bent inward between the seventh and eighth posts, and the first pair of posts is bent around the seventh post from the inside and brought out between the seventh and eighth. With the rods of the first pair, the seventh post is bent outward - the first three rods are formed (the first, fourth and seventh posts). Then the third pair (third and sixth) are folded over the first three inward between the eighth and ninth posts, and the second pair and eighth post are folded outward, obtaining the second three posts (second, fifth and eighth).

Rice. 25. Weaving an edge braid from three pairs of rods

From the first three, take two fourth and seventh posts, bend them over the second three inward between the ninth and tenth, and bend the third pair (third and sixth) outward along with the ninth (Fig. 25, And).

Further weaving pattern: from the leftmost three, two posts (the third is not cut) are bent up and inward between the two leftmost posts, and the innermost left pair is bent outward with the leftmost post, etc. (Fig. 25, To).

Edge braid with additional rods. Place rods under the bases of the first two posts on the right, bend them from left to right and outward (Fig. 26, A).

Rice. 26. Weaving an edge braid with lining of additional rods

The first pair of rods is bent over the second pair inward between the first posts on the left. 1 south of the bent first pair is bent from the left with uprights, the third upright is bent to the right and outwards, an additional rod is placed next to it (Fig. 26, b), without pulling the weave too tight.

The second pair is bent to the right, and on top of the third one is passed between the next two posts inward, the fourth post and the first pair are folded on top of it (Fig. 26, V). The second pair of rods turns out to be bent inward, and the third pair and the first three are brought out.

Next, the third pair is bent inward between the fifth and sixth posts on top of the first three, and the third pair, together with the fifth post, is bent outward (the second three). A pair of rods from the outermost left three are placed across the three on the right, and between the leftmost posts they are bent inward; the leftmost pair inside is bent together with the leftmost stand outward, continuing this weaving until the contour is closed (Fig. 26, d). The ends of the rods are cut off.

Edge braid with additional stands. Additional rods serve to form three paired racks. The weaving pattern is shown in Fig. 27. The remaining ends of the three pairs must be braided inside the braid and the ends trimmed.

If the basket has a lid, then it is necessary to make a strong supporting shelf for it. This can be a thick row consisting of four to five rods (Fig. 28). A hoop equal in circumference to the basket is made from durable material and attached to it. In the spaces between the first and second posts, the rod must be bent from the outside below the frame. After this, from bottom to top, in a spiral shape from left to right, they bend around the hoop rod from the outside, between the third and fourth posts they bend it inward, and between the fourth and fifth they take it out (Fig. 29). The second rod is placed under the hoop rod between the third and fourth posts. Next to the first one, they bend the hoop rod from the bottom up, between the fourth and fifth posts they bend it inward, and between the fifth and sixth posts they take it out. In the same way, two more rods are woven (if a row of four rods) or three (if a row of five rods). Further weaving is continued in the same way, starting from the end of the first rod.

Rice. 27. Weaving a bias bend

Rice. 28. Methods of weaving a thick row

Rice. 29. Weaving an edge braid from five pairs of rods

It is necessary to ensure that the rods are laid evenly, covering the hoop. Next, the hoop is braided in a spiral along with the stands.

Other types of weaving

Openwork weaving

This type of weaving can only be done from posts that are intertwined in a variety of ways, or rods are used for weaving (fastening the posts at the beginning of weaving and fastening the openwork weave with a rope, etc.). Products made using the openwork weaving method are distinguished by their lightness and grace, since the space between the posts is not filled. However, most often openwork weaving is combined with other types (Fig. 30).

Rice. thirty. Types of openwork weaving

In Fig. 31 shows examples of openwork weaving, including openwork finishing of edges and borders.

Rice. 31. Finishing the weaving of the openwork

Weaving fabric

This type of weaving is most often used to create wicker furniture (table tops, side walls and seats of chairs, etc.). For weaving, it is preferable to use willow ribbons rather than whole rods, since they are more elastic. You can also combine willow ribbons and twigs, various plant materials, and also use artificial materials. However, this requires special artistic taste and caution, since such materials do not always combine favorably.

The fabrics consist of two parts: longitudinal strips – the warp and transverse strips – the wefts. The warp can be made of round rods (10-12 mm thick), plates or willow strips, the wefts can be made of willow strips, round rods (5-7 mm thick) or artificial materials.

Tapes or warp rods are laid out on a sheet of plywood or board and both or one end is secured, from which weaving begins. The position of the weft parts depends on the weaving pattern: a square cage will be obtained if the rods are crossed over one another; “Parquet” will be obtained if the rods are placed one after another, so that each weft rod passes between two warp rods, which are located in the same cell. “Parquet” canvas can be made from paired strips or rods.

Rice. 32

Plates of this type are widely used for chair seats, sun loungers, and table tops.

Diamond weave

It is created by various combinations of rods and tapes (Fig. 32). A particularly interesting effect will be achieved if the warp and weft are of different colors. Weaving usually starts from the middle, and then goes in different directions. In this case, the first weft rod is placed in the middle under the middle part of the warp rod - these are the weaving axes that will pass through the vertices of the rhombus. Weaving continues in both directions: three warp rods are covered with weft on top, and under the next three it is placed underneath, etc. The following two weft rods below and above the horizontal axial are placed in the middle parts on five warp rods in the axial vertical in the middle. Next, the weft rods are placed under the three warp rods from below and onto the next three from above.

In order for all sides of the diamond to be even, the number of weft and warp rods must be the same. But you can start weaving from one of the edges.

Weaving simple items from wicker

Basket weaving

In many cases, templates are used to create round or oval baskets, which helps maintain the proportions of the product and reduces the waviness of the rods. Weaving any basket in its classical sense begins with making the bottom. The shape and size of the basket depends on what it will be like. Accordingly, depending on the structure of the bottom, types of baskets are distinguished (Fig. 33).

Rice. 33. Weaving patterns

Making the bottom

For weaving round bottom for the basket you will need 8 rods with a thickness of 8-10 mm, the length of the rods is determined based on the height of the basket. The rods are split in the middle, and the remaining rods are inserted into the splits of four rods at right angles (Fig. 34, A). Starting from the apical parts, the resulting cross is braided with two rods according to the “rope” principle. After two rows of weaving have been completed around the crosspiece, the rods are separated in twos, two or three more rows are woven with rope (Fig. 34, b), and then one by one they are braided with rope again. The distance between the rods should be the same and the weaving should be tight. After the rods are secured with rope, weaving can be continued in the usual way using two rods. The weaving is also finished with a rope, which gives the bottom special strength.

Rice. 34. Weaving the bottom of the basket

Weaving oval bottom does not differ fundamentally from that described above, except that the rods are divided into lateral and longitudinal. To make the bottom you will need four long rods (45 cm) and eight short rods (30 cm). Longitudinal ones are inserted into the splits of the transverse rods and braided with two rows of rope from two rods. Then the ends of the racks are evenly spread in different directions and again secured with two rows of rope into two rods. Further weaving can be simple, but you need to finish weaving the bottom again with two rows of rope.

Square and rectangular bottoms have the same structure. Depending on the size of the basket, the required number of rods of the same length and thickness is prepared. The distance between the posts also ranges from 40 to 15 mm. To secure the racks, they are laid out on a board, a plate or rail is placed on one side and secured (Fig. 35).

As in other cases, weaving a square bottom begins and ends with a rope, and the middle can be decorated with simple weaving. When the outer post is rounded, weaving must be continued in the opposite direction until the rod ends. They build it up in the middle of the bottom.

Rice. 35

Attaching the racks

In baskets with an oval or round bottom, the rods for the racks are chosen the same size, their butt ends are cut off obliquely or planed in a circle. The rods are inserted next to the bottom base stand; one side stand and two on the end roundings are placed on the side walls of the oval bottom next to the bottom base stand. After this, the racks are bent at a right angle and fastened with several rows of rope into two rods (Fig. 36).

In round bottoms, the side posts are placed evenly around the entire circumference near each bottom post.

Rice. 36. Attaching basket posts

If the bottom is rectangular, planed racks are placed in its end sides in the same way. Their sides are cut into a “mustache” or “spatula” and inserted under the braid into the holes made. After the butt ends of the side posts are secured, they are lifted up and secured with two rows of rope. To prevent the riser rods from coming apart when weaving, a template hoop is attached to four of them, and the walls are woven using simple layer-by-layer weaving.

If the bottom of the basket is made of plywood, it is nailed down around the circumference of the post. A plate is placed on top of the post and secured with nails, after which the posts are secured with two rows of rope.

The racks can also be attached with simple hinges. For this, round rods or plates are used. A post is applied to the top hoop from the outside with the butt part up, it is bent inward around the hoop, and the end is brought out on the left side of the post. The same end is bent from left to right from the outside through the stand and along the hoop from the bottom side. In the same way, fix the second post at a distance three times greater than its thickness, while securing the end of the first post. Further fastening is done in the same way.

To make the fastening more secure, you can use a double loop. The weaving method is the same, with the only difference being that the rod is used to make two turns around the hoop. In this case, it is better to cut the stand by 1/3 of its thickness to the length of the double bend of the hoop and attach the rod to the hoop with the cut side.

The racks can also be attached with a tightening loop. The stand is applied with the cut part to the hoop from the outside, bent around the hoop, brought out from the left side of the stand, transferred from left to right through the stand and again bent from the bottom inward and upward outward, tucking the end of the stand into the loop. The loop is tightened by pulling both ends of the stoics.

Methods for attaching handles

The shape and method of fastening the handles depend on the purpose and appearance of the product. Handles can be soft, hard, folding, attached, or simply decorative. The handle in a product for utilitarian purposes must be firmly fixed and withstand significant loads, while in women's bags decorative design comes to the fore. The thickness of the handles depends on the size of the basket and can be made from barked or unbarked twigs.

Handles can be made from one or two rods, as well as from a whole bunch. In addition, you can also make handles from other natural or artificial materials (metal rods, leather, etc.).

The simplest type of handle is an ordinary hole in the wall of the product. You can make bow handles from additional rods that are attached to the basket or bag after braiding the edge fold. In baskets made from two perpendicular hoops, you can make one handle - it is half of one of the hoops. Such handles can be braided with plastic ribbons or round willow twigs.

The handles can also have a rigid or hinged fastening (Fig. 37).

For this purpose, wire is woven together with the bottom posts and walls of the basket. After the sides of the basket are woven, loops are made from wire that are attached to the woven handles. The handle can also be made from a special blank. In the side wall of the basket, the rods are moved apart, where the prepared, pre-moistened handles are tucked. The ends cut at an angle are tied to the main handle with willow ribbons or twigs.

Rice. 37. Handles with rigid and articulated fastening

Making caps

If the basket has a lid, then when weaving the walls of the basket is completed, a rope of five rods is woven out of them so that the ends of the rods of one rope meet the ends of the rods of the rope on the other side and do not overlap each other. To do this, additional rods are connected by their corresponding ends . After the weaving with rope is completed, the risers of the walls are tied into a bundle, tilting them, and tied in this position with thin short rods in layer-by-layer weaving (4–6 cm). The tapering part of the basket walls is finished by weaving a rope into two pairs of rods (Fig. 38).

Rice. 38. Making caps

The upper part of the lid is woven in the same way as the bottom of the basket, only thinner rods are selected. In addition, the dimensions of the lid must match the dimensions of the bottom. When the top of the lid is ready, risers are placed in it and braided with a rope of four rods. Having bent the risers, a rope of three rods is woven on them from two places. After the height of the walls of the lid has reached the required height, the weaving is completed by bending into three pairs of rods, in which the ends of the risers are bent from the inside, passing through one riser.

The lid is attached so that it tightly covers the basket. Loops for these purposes can be made from wire or willow twigs. You can also make a lock to keep the basket closed.

It is made from a single bundle of twigs, starting weaving from the bottom. The size of the rods used depends on the desired size of the product. The butt ends of the rods are tightly tied into a tight bundle with willow tape. The rods of the bundle are racks that are spread apart and braided to your liking - with a rope, simple weaving, in one or two rods, etc. (Fig. 39).

Once the posts are secured, normal weaving can continue.

Rice. 39. Flowerpots

Placemats

These products are relatively easy to manufacture and can be used in any home (Fig. 40). To weave a round stand (diameter 13 cm), you will need 12 stands 35 cm long and one additional stand 20 cm long. The stands are folded crosswise, an additional stand is applied to one half so that their total number is odd.

Rice. 40. Dish holder

The crossed posts are wrapped around a thin stem and braided around the crosspiece in the form of a spiral. After completing the first few turns, the groups of racks are divided into pairs, while the additional rack should remain alone. Next, the spiral weave of the racks continues around the first turns. The coils should fit very tightly, without gaps, to each other. After several turns have been made, the pairs of racks are divided into single ones and weaving continues. There is another way to weave a stand from more stands. The racks must be laid in four groups in the form of eight rays diverging from the center, and an additional rack must be added to one of the groups. Groups of racks that have not yet been separated are braided according to the principle of darning in two rows: after several turns passed above and below the same groups, the next turns are passed over those racks that were on top of the turns and vice versa.

Rice. 41. Spiral weave

There is another way to lay the same number of racks at the beginning of work (their number can be even, then there is no need for an additional rack). The same 12 racks of rods are folded crosswise in bundles of 6 rods. A long thin rod is folded in half, braided around the crossed posts and continues to weave in a spiral, crossing the ends of the thin stem in front of each group of posts. After dividing the groups of posts into single ones, both ends of the thin stem are woven close to each other. The racks are braided until the diameter of the stand reaches 12.5 cm. The finished product is placed in water for several hours, after which the softened racks are folded onto the wrong side of the work (the front side is the top, working side). Round wicker parts look more attractive if their edges are decorated with openwork, for which additional racks are placed in the walls of the product.

To make a smaller stand for a cup of hot coffee, a small teapot or a vase of flowers, you will need 6 rods of medium thickness, 10 cm long, for the frame; 24 rods of 30 cm each for the border; thin vine for weaving. The crosspiece of the frame is made from crossbars of three rods each. The crosspiece is braided twice with a rope, after which all the rods of the crosspiece are separated and weaving continues until the diameter of the base becomes 6 cm.

Material: 8 thick rods 30 cm long for the frame; 32 rods, 42.5 cm long, for side posts; 2 rods with a diameter of 2.8 cm, a length of 30 cm for handles; 4 guides for handles - short cuttings of vine with a diameter of 2.8 cm, pointed at one end; thin rods for weaving the base and sides of the tray; planed tape for braiding handles.

Frame for the base of the tray is made in the same way as for the stand. The frame is braided several times: first with a rope of two rods until the diameter of the base is 15 cm, then three times with a rope of three rods, five times with a rope of two rods and again three times with a triple rope. During the weaving process, it is necessary to ensure that the base of the tray does not bend.

All protruding ends of the rods are cut off, and pre-sharpened rods for the tray rim posts are inserted into the base. In order for the racks to bend without breaking, they must be squeezed with pliers at the very edge of the base of the tray. The ends of the bent posts are gathered together above the base and tied tightly.

Ysadka. Using this operation, the direction of weaving of the tray is changed when moving from the base to its walls. To do this, three rods of medium thickness must be sharpened at one end and inserted into the base next to three adjacent posts. The stand located to the left of the first rod is marked - there will be a “transition” in this place. The base is braided once with a rope so that the weaving fits tightly to the base, and goes first down, then up and around the stand. All racks must be at the same distance from each other, so they must be moved apart during operation.

Rice. 42. Tray

After five more rows are woven with rope, the racks are untied and guides for future handles are inserted. The distance between the guides should be about 10 cm.

Edge. At a distance of 0.7 cm from the woven edge of the side, pliers squeeze all the posts so that they can be easily bent to one side. Three adjacent posts are bent and weaving of the edge from three rods begins. The edge is woven with a simple bend, threading each stand in turn into the tray. The ends are trimmed.

Pens. Blanks for handles must be moistened, their ends sharpened and bent in an arc. Remove the guides and insert the handles in their place. The end of the braiding tape, face down, is inserted into the bead to the right of one end of the handle. The end of the braid that extends into the tray should be 15 cm long. This end of the braid is used to go around the edge on the same right side of the handle and again thread it through the edge at the same level, but on the left side of the handle. The long end is then passed over the edge to the left of the handle so that the handle can begin to be wrapped. The short end of the braid must be braided to the handle. Lay a piece of tape over the handle, inserting the ends into the edge next to the ends of the handles. Then you need to tightly wrap the handle three times at the base, pass the end of the braid under the segment running along the handle, tighten and wrap the handle over this segment again.

The entire handle is braided in the same sequence. For strength, you can secure the braid at both ends of the handle with nails.

If desired, the tray can be made without handles and used as a bread box or fruit basket (Fig. 42).

For large and small paintings and photographs, the frame is made in the same way. Only the thickness and length of the slats of the unbraided frame, the pitch of the holes for the bending rods and its height depend on the size of the picture (for a photograph measuring 9x10 mm, its height is 3 cm).

Material (for a frame measuring 320x465x1.5 mm): 4 strips 15x15 mm of the appropriate size; (for photography 9x 12 cm - 12x 12 mm); 16 screws with a diameter of 2 - 2.5 mm and a length of about 12 mm; long rod for ropes with a diameter of 1.5 mm (ends with a diameter of 1 mm); 4 right triangles made of plywood measuring 2x8 cm; 100 rods diameter 2- 2.5 cm long 11 cm; 24 rods in diameter 2~ 2.5 mm long 15 cm; 120 rods with a diameter of 2 mm, a length of 12–13 cm (for a pigtail).

All 4 slats for the frame must be prepared 1 cm longer than the nominal size to accommodate the joints at the corners. The outer corners of the slats and the right angle of all triangles are twisted. The outer sides of the front surface of all 4 frame slats are rounded, the joints of each corner of the frame are aligned and the correct assembly of the rectangle is checked with a template - a sheet of paper cut exactly to the size of the photograph. There should be a gap of approximately 0.5mm between each long side of the template and the strip so that the photograph can be placed in the frame.

On the planks, every 1.5 cm, mark the centers of vertical and horizontal holes for rods and holes for screws with a diameter of 2 mm, in the corners -

10 mm Before drilling holes, the upper part of one of the frame slats (preferably a short one) is cut off so that a photograph can be pushed there.

The frame is assembled by placing a triangle on the bottom of the planks and screwing it to the planks with screws; the ends of the screws protruding beyond the planks are filed down.

The butt side of the rods is sharpened and inserted into the holes so that their butt part protrudes 1 mm from the slats into the frame. Rods 11 cm long are placed in all horizontal holes, and rods 15 cm long are placed in the corner holes. Rods 13 cm long are inserted into all vertical holes and, starting from the middle of the long side, an edge braid of three rods. The rods are bent outward (the braid in this case will move inward as much as possible and will hold the picture well) and weave clockwise. The last bent rod is secured with a clothespin.

Braiding begins with a braid, not an edge, so that the rods do not break during the braiding process. The rods are inserted into the horizontal holes along the entire perimeter of the frame with the butt parts and three rows of rope are woven with rods with a diameter of 1.5 mm. When bending, the rods are bent from left to right, and the next rod is taken from the left. Before bending, the rods must be wetted and their ends sticking up must be sharpened. We bend the rods according to the following pattern: bend 2 rods from below, 1 from above (behind the second, in front of the first) and place the pointed end in a rope next to the next rod. The height of the bend is 4 cm. After bending along the entire perimeter of several rods in each of the corners, their place connections with the rope are fixed with glue.

The product is varnished and after it dries, all protruding ends are cut off.

Cardboard is glued to the triangles and a photograph is placed in a frame. A pigtail protruding 1.5 mm inside the contour of the photograph will hold it in the frame.

Vegetable basket

This is the easiest type of basket to make. The first stage is making a frame from a walnut or willow stick of medium thickness. Bend two hoops of equal size from a stick, planing the ends of the sticks into a wedge (Fig. 43).

The ends of the hoop are fastened and the hoop is inserted into one another. The crossing points are intertwined with a rod or willow tape, firmly securing the cross. There are several ways to braid a cross. The longitudinal risers of the basket are made of thicker rods, the length of which must correspond to the length of the lower arc so that the basket is equilateral. Next, starting from the cross, they braid the bottom of the basket towards the middle using simple weaving.

Rice. 43. Weaving the frame of the hoops and the bottom of the basket

Basket

Material: 10 thick rods 32.5 cm long for the bottom of the basket; 40 thick rods 55 cm long for racks; 40 thick rods for additional racks 15 cm long; material of medium thickness for weaving the base of the basket, walls and handle; ribbon 1 cm wide; a rod 1 m long and 8-10 mm in diameter for the handle; 2 guides for handles with a diameter of 6 or 10 mm.

Anishchv. 5 rods out of 10 prepared for the frame are pierced in the middle with an awl. Without removing the awl, into this hole, widening it, insert the remaining five rods one at a time so as to form a cross. Stepping back from the middle, one thin rod is bent around one of the crossbars. The crosspiece is braided with rope. At the beginning of the third row of weaving, each crossbar is divided into pairs of rods, holding them with your fingers. They make three rows, and then divide the crosses into single rods and continue weaving until the diameter of the bottom reaches 30 cm. 40 side posts are strengthened, they are compressed with pliers at the very edge of the base of the basket, the posts are bent and the ends are tightly tied.

The uprights at the base are braided with six rows of rope made of three rods, and the first row can be woven with a rope of four rods. In this case, four weaving rods are inserted into the base and each left rod is passed in front of three posts and behind one post. When moving to a rope of three rods, the first rod goes around the marked post. The transition is made, as usual, with the remaining three rods, and weaving continues with a regular rope. The result is a solid base for the basket. The racks are untied. The ends of the additional posts are sharpened and inserted on the right side of each of the main posts (to give the basket greater strength).

The end of one piece of tape is secured between two posts and all posts are braided with straight weaving

Pens. From different sides of the basket, guide rods are inserted opposite each other for its base. Six rows of rope are woven with three rods, and the protruding ends of the additional posts are trimmed. Finish the walls with a simple rope. The handle rod should not be too long so that the basket does not seem bulky. The ends of the rod are sharpened and inserted into the place of the guides. From medium-thick vines, rods are cut 37.5 cm long longer than the length of the base of the handle; one end is sharpened. On each side of the basket to the left of the base of the handle, five rods are inserted and five go around the base of the handle from the outside, three or four turns are made around this base so that the rods cover it along its entire length, going towards each other from the right and left ends of the handle. The ends of the braid are brought out through the gaps between the posts to the right of the handle, and then one at a time they go around the handle at the edge of the basket. The ends of the rods are passed inside the basket to the left of the handle and the ends are tucked in. The basket is ready.

The cup of the flower is made in the same way as the bottom of a round basket. The crosspiece is made from three pairs of rods with a diameter of 1.5 mm and a length of 4 cm. Rods with a diameter of up to 1 mm are woven by twisting until the diameter of the product reaches 3 cm. Soak the cup, compact the weaving and cut off the posts one by one, so the first one is completely, leaving 5 mm from the second etc. On the left of each of the cut bottom posts, bent rods with a diameter of 1.5 and a length of 14 cm are inserted into the weaving with pointed ends. This

there will be the first, lowest corolla of the petals, the height of which is 5.5 cm. The petal is rounded by lightly pressing its tip with your finger down in the direction of the cup. All petals bend outward slightly. While the flower cup is still wet, make it slightly concave.

We bend 12 rods with a diameter of 1.5 mm and a length of 11 cm in the middle, insert and shape them in the same way as the petals of the 1st corolla. To the right of the first and third bottom posts, on top of the petals of the 1st corolla, insert the first petal of the 2nd corolla 4.5 cm high. The second petal of this corolla is inserted on top of the first one to the left of the second and fourth bottom posts and the remaining 10 petals are inserted in the same way. Then they bend them upward. The remaining racks of the cup are cut off completely (before weaving).

Just like the petals of the 1st and 2nd corollas, 6 petals are made from rods with a diameter of 1.5 mm and a length of 10 cm. On the left of the second and fourth bottom posts, the first petal of the 3rd corolla is inserted on top of the already inserted petals. Its height is 3 cm. Having inserted it, bend it upward strongly. The second petal is made in the same way, inserting it to the left of the fourth and sixth pillars of the cup. In the same way, 4 more petals are inserted.

Near each calyx stand there should be 4 rods inserted, and near one of them there should also be a flower petiole rod. The joints of the rods are fixed with glue.

The petiole is a light brown rod with a diameter of 2.5–3 mm. When wet, it is slightly bent, planed and inserted next to one of the cup posts.

The flower is varnished and after drying, all protruding ends are cut off.

To make the center of a flower chocolate-colored, before coating it with varnish, it must be coated with glue and then with stain.

Birdcage

Weaving the cage begins with making the bottom, for the base of which riser sticks are used. Their number is determined by the size of the bottom. The risers are straightened, planed and inserted into the hole of the board, and the outermost risers must be paired. The bottom is first braided with a rope of two rods, and then switched to simple weaving. Finish the weaving with a rope of two rods, making sure that the weaving is tight as you work.

The risers of the cage are woven with a rope and three rods, starting to weave from each corner and going beyond the rest, until the rods run out. The cage risers are left unbraided.

4 sticks are nailed to the corner risers at the desired height parallel to the bottom, the middle of which is intertwined with a rope into two rods to give the cage strength (Fig. 44).

Rice. 44. Birdcage

The lid of the cage is made in the same way as the bottom, only with more sparse weaving. A fold of three pairs of rods is woven along the edges of the lid.

The lid is attached with hinges to the cage, and a lock in the form of a hook or loop is made at the front of it.

Braiding

Large bottles for liquids have been used in households for a long time. To prevent such bottles from breaking during transportation or storage, they were braided with willow twigs or placed in a special case.

Making such a case is not difficult; its weaving is almost no different from making a round basket. Sizes and shape depend on the bottle.

If the bottle is not very large, it is better to braid it with continuous weaving. The bottom is woven the same as for round baskets, only with a slightly larger diameter than the bottom of the bottle. The risers are strengthened in the same way (Fig. 45), and the bottom is finished by weaving a rope into three or four rods.

Rice. 45. Bottle braiding

Next, you need to bend another riser so that their number is odd, and braid the risers with willow ribbon. To ensure that the shape of the braid matches the shape of the bottle, in the tapering part the risers are connected in twos and, after continuing the weaving a little, one riser in the pair is cut off. Next, weaving continues in the same way, and ends with bending.

For greater convenience, you can attach a handle to the bottle.

Fruit bowl

Dimensions of the fruit bowl: height – 18 cm, top diameter – 21 cm, stand diameter – 14 cm, bottom diameter – 10 cm. Shape – half-opened bud.

Material: 8 rods with a diameter of 2 mm and a length of 115 mm (for the bottom); 20 rods with a diameter of 1–1.5 mm, a length of 50 cm (for the bottom); 48 rods with a diameter of 2 mm and a length of 90 cm (for the main wall posts); 48 rods with a diameter of 2 mm, approximately 45 cm long (for additional wall posts).

The bottom is woven with a rope into two rods until its diameter reaches 10 cm. An ordinary stove pot can serve as a template. Before inserting the wall posts, cut off 2 adjacent bottom posts (but not all at once); to the right of each post, insert 3 wet rods of the wall post with a cut towards the bottom post (their butts are cut “on a mustache” on one side and pointed). They crimp, bend upward and tie all the wall posts into a bundle. Weave 4 rows of landing (ropes of three rods, where the first rod lies not on top of the next two, but below them) with rods with a diameter of 1.5 mm. Untie the stands, insert the form and tie it tightly to the bottom. At the same time, a form for a stand is tied from below in the form of a truncated cone 3 cm high, the upper diameter is equal to the diameter of the bottom, and the lower one is 3–4 cm larger than it. Bend the rods of the wall posts from left to right at a height of approximately 14 cm at the widest point of the pot (so that you can remove the mold) according to the scheme: in front of the third, behind the second, and bring it out near the bottom

Folding is done only under the elastic band. The next triple for bending is taken from the left and, having threaded the triples through the landing ropes, they are brought out. Next, the ends are soaked and braided over the cone according to the pattern: behind the second, in front of the second, behind the first and the ends are brought out. The ends are soaked again and braided like this: from below the first wall post, from above the first wall post, the ends are brought behind the wall post on top of the rope and cut there. The bottom bend should end at the bottom border of the cone; make it the same way as the top one.

Prepare additional posts and bend them in the same way as the main ones, inserting them into the rope between the main posts. Their pointed ends are inserted into the ropes between the main posts and glued into place. The distance between the upper boundaries of the first and second folds should be approximately 3 cm. Cover the product with varnish from the inside and outside and, after drying, cut off all protruding ends.

Rice. 46. Fruit bowl

Wicker weaving has been known since ancient times, even when our ancestors made bast shoes. Over time, people began to weave containers and household items of various kinds and purposes (boxes, baskets, cradles, etc.). Now, wicker weaving allows you to create unique and unusual decorative elements, and household items have simply diversified their arsenal and style.

Christmas wreath

Necessary materials:

• grapevine (you can use any grape plant, both wild and cultivated), you will need about 10 grapevine sticks, 0.5 cm in diameter and about 2 meters in length (the number of vine sticks depends on the desired thickness of the future wreath);
• glue gun;
• natural materials for decoration (cones, Christmas tree branches, acorns, berries);
• decorative materials (burlap, balls, bows, beads, money, boxes).

Weaving is best done from freshly cut vines. If the vine has dried out, you can moisten it and it will again acquire the necessary moisture and elasticity.

The procedure for weaving a Christmas wreath:

Take one vine stick and roll it into a ring as shown in the picture.

With the second stick you need to braid the previously formed ring around it.

At the beginning and at the end of the action, the edges of the working vine must be secured between the rods of the first row of weaving.

During the weaving process, the vine tends to break; in this case, at the break point, you need to cut off the twig and tuck the end between the previously woven rows.

To ensure the accuracy of the finished product, you need to ensure that all the rods during the weaving process lie in the same direction.

The finished vine ring can be left without decoration, as a talisman, or it can be decorated.

Using a glue gun, you need to glue all the previously prepared decorative elements to the vine ring.

You can fill the wreath with twigs and cones using your own imagination.

You can add various kinds of bows and even artificial snow to the wreath.

Weaving a decorative braid

This example will be made along the contour of a plywood board with rounded corners.

Necessary materials:

• plywood board with rounded corners;
• nail;
• hammer;
• pencil;
• drill and drill depending on the thickness of the vine rods;
• nippers or pruning shears;
• vine.

First you need to take a plywood board and mark future holes on the sides with a pencil for inserting vine rods, leaving about 3 centimeters between the marks.

Use a nail and hammer to make small indentations on the marks. Use a drill to drill holes about 2 centimeters.

It is best to use the rods when wet, as they are more flexible, so insert the rods into the holes as needed during the weaving process.

Insert rods about 30 centimeters long into the holes.

You need to start braiding from left to right from the place where three paired holes are drilled one after another. From three places we will have four rods of vine coming out.

For convenience, we will call these rod structures “strands.”

Take a separate stick and bend the middle strand through it, using the tips from the picture.

Take the first strand of twigs and lead it behind the third, over the second.

Bend the third strand over the first strand tied behind it.

We take the second strand of four rods and wrap it behind a strand of two rods over the third strand, which also consists of four.

We bend a pair of strands of rods.

We attach four rods from the first to the already bent paired strand. We have six rods in one plane. Further, the upper waves of the braid will consist of four rods, and the lower waves of six.

Place the third strand of four strands behind the next paired strand.

Bend a pair of strands of twigs.

Attach four rods from the second strand to the already bent paired strand.

In the fourth strand we have already formed six rods. We take only four of them and wind the next pair of strands behind the four rods.

We bend a pair of twigs by attaching four twigs to it. This creates a wave of six rods.

Repeat the step in which you need to take four rods out of six.

Continue weaving in a circle until the end and beginning of the weave meet.

Take four of the six rods in the top wave and wrap them behind the first strand.

The last time you need to wind the next four rods out of six, behind the strand from which the braiding began (the strand that was first bent through the auxiliary stick).

Weave the bottom wave with the remaining rods and add, in order, four rods and two more to each woven section. And cut off the two unused rods at the end of the entire weaving.

Also, at the end, you need to cut off all protruding rods only carefully so as not to spoil the leading ones.

Basket weaving

For weaving you will need a willow vine, but not all vines are equally good for this work; some types may break when working with it. To check if the vine is suitable for the job, bend it 90 degrees, if it does not break, then it is suitable. The vine must be dried before working with it.

However, before the process, the dry vine must be moistened to make it easier to work with. The period of soaking the vine depends on its length; the longer the vine, the longer it needs to be soaked.

In addition to the vine itself, you will need:

• scissors;
• pruner;
• a long nail or sharp stick.

The initial stage is creating a base for the basket. Make eight sections of fairly thick vine. For a basket of the same size as in the master class, segments about 30 centimeters long are sufficient.

Take four pieces and make a cut about 5 centimeters long in the center of each of them.

Insert the uncut pieces into the cut ones in the middle to create a cross shape.

Now examine the sections of rods and select the thinnest ones, as well as the longest. These are the best ones to start weaving with. Take two pieces and insert the thin ends into the slits as shown in the picture.

To start making the basket we will use the Twist weave. It's actually a fairly simple technique, but it may not be easy for you the first time if you've never tried it before. It consists of the following: you need to hold two twigs, and then twist them one above the other so that they change places. Each twist is always done in the same direction. To better understand the technique, look at the pictures.

Wrap four sections each time, make two rows. This will help secure the base of the basket. Try to pull the twigs as tightly as possible and place them as close to each other as possible.

After you complete two rows using the same twisting technique, you need to wrap the rods separately on each section.

Separate the segments from each other by tilting them. Make the distance between the segments as even as possible. Once you have completed this row, your twigs should be distributed like the spokes of a bicycle wheel. Make a few more rows.

Soon your braiding sections will become too short and you will need to lengthen them to continue working. It's best not to add two vines at the same time as this can make the weave weak. To understand how to do this, see the figure.

The end of the new segment must be inserted between the last two rows and then folded over. After this, cut off the old vine and continue weaving the basket. When adding new twigs, connect the thick end to the thick end and the thin end to the thin one.

Once you've made the base for the basket, insert another vine to the 16 you have in the base (just sharpen the end of the vine and insert it into the last two rows). You will have to apply some force, if necessary, you can widen the distance between the braided rows to make the piece easier to insert.

Cut off the twigs with which you weaved earlier, and continue weaving with only one inserted (above the twig, under the twig, and so on). You can add new twigs by simply tying the new one to the old one. Continue weaving until the base reaches the diameter you need. In this case, the base is 20 centimeters.

Now take pieces of medium-thick vine. You need to create the sides of the basket. Sharpen the thick end of each of them. Insert these pieces next to each of the “spokes”. Cut off the ends of the old knitting needles at warp level.

One of the new twigs, bend it to the left under the two adjacent ones, and then bend it up, as shown in the picture. Repeat in the same way with the remaining twigs. After this, take all the twigs into a bundle and tie them.

Now insert three twigs to the left of the three twigs at the base of the sides. Take the one on the far left, fold it to the right behind the two adjacent ones and in front of the third, then turning it outward. Continue in the same way and make two rows, then untie the twigs.

Count the number of twigs, take the same amount. Insert a twig to the right of each knitting needle at the base, tilting it to the left and wrapping it behind the adjacent knitting needle and in front of the third, and then bring the twig out again.

Once you have inserted the required amount, you can begin weaving. Weave until the sections become short.

All that remains is to make the headband. To create it, take one of the twigs and bend it to the right.

Take it by two adjacent twigs, in front of the third and fourth, then by the fifth and take it outside.

Repeat in the same way with each of the twigs. Finally, cut off any excess length.

Nowadays, fashion for folk crafts is returning, and in particular, for products made from wicker. This could be original furniture, various baskets, boxes, etc. Lovers of exclusives pay good money for original works. Wicker weaving for beginners can bring in a decent income if you approach the matter seriously and responsibly. In this article we will take a detailed look at wicker weaving for beginners step by step.

Business registration

If you plan to work independently at home, you don’t need to register this business at first. But if you are interested in wicker weaving as a business, you need to officially register the enterprise.

To do this, you should register an individual entrepreneur or LLC. The choice of organizational and legal form largely depends on the planned scale of production. Also, be sure to obtain a permit from the fire department since you will be working with flammable materials.

Types of products

Vine is a pliable material that is highly flexible. You can weave various items from it.

These may be the following products:

1. Armchairs, tables, sofas, shelves, chairs;
2. Baskets, stands, bread bins, flower pots, trays;
3. Souvenirs, figurines, Christmas tree decorations, vases.

Do-it-yourself wicker furniture is the most popular. To make such products, craftsmen use a technique somewhat reminiscent of macrame, that is, alternating knots and loose threads. Our ancient ancestors learned to create various products from wicker. Modern people began to value ecological materials, so the love for folk art began to be revived.

Craftsmen can use different types of weaving in their work:

• Solid;
• Openwork;
• Spiral;
• Simple;
• Weaving with rope.

If you want to master this art yourself, find a step-by-step video of wicker weaving for beginners on the Internet. But it is best to take lessons from an experienced master who will help you gain all the necessary skills. Once you understand how to weave baskets from wicker, you can gradually move on to making more complex products.

Procurement of raw materials

The best material used for weaving wicker products with your own hands is willow. You should be aware that you cannot mix twigs from different trees. Raw materials can be harvested all year round. Its quality largely depends on what time of year they were cut. In spring and summer, the material has a beautiful milky color. The bark from such twigs is easy to clean, and the wood itself has a herbaceous structure.

In winter, the material is more elastic and durable. It does not need to be sanded, since the rods acquire beautiful colors in different shades. By combining them, you can make wickerwork with a pattern. After you cut the rods, they need to be sanded and split into several parts. It is advisable to do this in clear sunny weather so that the rods can dry out a little.

Pattern: wicker weaving technique

Technology

As a rule, training begins with a simple technique of weaving with wicker. This is the main element that is used to make various products. After you have mastered simple wicker weaving for beginners, you can move on to openwork.

We act according to the following principle:

• The rods braid the risers;
• The horizontal row goes around the vertical one.

The location of the risers largely depends on how correctly you choose the material. During operation, you should check the strips so that they are at the same distance and do not twist. The simplest option is weaving using one rod.

When you figure out how to weave simple products from wicker, move on to making openwork furniture.

Business benefits

Original do-it-yourself wicker furniture is always in great demand. You won't spend a lot of money on making it. The biggest investment is your time and effort.

If you prepare the rods yourself, the cost of the products will be low, and accordingly, you will receive a high income. The most important advantage of such a business is that it does not require large capital investments. All invested money will be returned within 1-2 months of work.

Staff

When the business begins to develop, you can hire several craftsmen to work. Over time, their number can be increased. In this case, you can divide the production process into several stages. Some workers will work exclusively on frames, while others will only do weaving. To diversify the models, invite seamstresses to work on making furniture covers, sofa cushions and other items made of fabric or leather.

Sales channels

The first buyers of your products will be your acquaintances and friends. The most profitable activity is weaving furniture from wicker. It can be sold online on your own website or on social networks.

All you need to do is take a photo of your products and put them up for sale at affordable prices. You can rest assured that the first buyers will appear in the shortest possible time. In addition, you can sell products at markets or in your own store.

Financial calculations

To set up a home business, you will have to spend a certain amount.

Main expenses:

• Taxes;
• Renting a retail outlet or promoting a website on the Internet;
• Transportation costs for finished products.

You can cut costs if you reach an agreement with stores and sell your products. As a result, you can save on renting a retail outlet and transporting products.

For example, in one day you make 2 tables for 6 thousand rubles. For the sale of products, you will pay the store 20% of its cost, as well as 6% tax for conducting business activities. For a month it will be approximately 35 thousand rubles. This is your net income.

Price policy

Furniture items can be made either as a set or separately. For example, there is always a high demand for chairs. They cost approximately 500 rubles. But if you make four chairs and a table, the price of such a set is already 10 thousand rubles.

The greatest demand is for wicker bedside tables, coffee tables, hangers, etc. Rocking chairs also sell well. They are purchased wholesale by private sanatoriums and boarding houses.

Video on the topic Video on the topic

• You should not immediately take on the production of complex objects. Try to weave simple things, such as small baskets or coasters. First of all, you need to figure out how to make a frame, after which you can try to weave a vine into it;
• To give the product the desired shade, you can use special chemical compounds;
• The most common product that is in greatest demand is rocking chairs. One person can make two such products per day.

conclusions

For beginning entrepreneurs, the business idea of ​​wicker weaving is attractive because it does not require large financial investments. The market for wicker products is not yet fully saturated. Mostly, consumers are offered expensive imported goods. If you set affordable prices, the demand for your products will be high. This means that the business will bring decent profits.